FOSAF NEWS - Fly of the month: Pancora Wooly by Wayne Stegen

 

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Material used:

Hook: #10 Gamakatsu S10 (Essential as it is so sharp)

Thread: 14/0 Black

Weight:  0.010 lead wire (or less wraps of a thicker lead)

Tail: Half Yellow filoplume and half Orange filoplume (the fluffy feathers at the base of a saddle hackle)

Flash: Red fluoro fiber

Base: Green wool, split into 4

Body: Light Olive/Coffee Variegated chenille (The other mixes work well too)

Hackle: Grizzly hackle (softer the better, with a gradual taper) Fibers NOT more than 1mm longer then the gape of the hook

Ribbing: Medium Copper wire

 

 

1)  Start by squashing the barb. We damage fish enough and these barbs are frightening!

2) Building a base of thread with corded cotton (Spin your cotton in a clockwise direction for 5 seconds). This is an essential step to give the fly some grip.

3) Four wraps of 0.01mm lead. Ensure you secure this with the cotton.

4) Two small clumps of yellow (bottom) and Orange (top) put together and tied in as a tail. No longer then ¾ of the hook shank in length. It is not a bugger and serves to add a bit of movement and trigger.

5) Tie in a piece of Fluoro Fibre on either side of the tail for additional trigger

6) Now to build the fly. We will tie in all components in reverse order (Ribbing, Hackle, Chenille)

-tie in the copper wire on the side of the shank up to the lead

-With the hackle feather curved away from you, a) flare the fibers downward b) Strip the left fibers off the entire feather c) Cut the tip 5mm fibers down to a 1mm length d) Tie in the tip of the feather, stripped side facing upward

- Strip the first 3mm of the chenille to expose the cotton base. Tie this portion in. this prevents bulking

7) Tie the single strand of wool into the depression between the lead and the other fly components. Wrap forward and ensure the last 2mm of hook behind the eye ARE NOT covered and then come back to over the lead. This should ensure you have a smooth and gradual taper. Tie it in and secure the whole section of wool with your thread. Leaving the thread just behind the eye to prepare for finishing off

8) As indicated in, we will now build the body in reverse order to 6)

- Wrap the chenille in at a 2 ‘o clock angle to create a good taper and minimal bulk. Secure tightly, leaving 1mm behind the eye. A whip finish at this point adds strength

- Pull the hackle feather upward to 12 ‘o clock and ensure the fibers are pointing backward. Wrap forwards in the same angle as the chenille and secure behind the hook eye. This will give your hackle the perfect palmer.

- Pull your copper wire under the fly and around the back. Wrap forwards at the 2 ‘o clock angle putting as much pressure on the copper as you can. Secure in behind the eye and whip finish.

9) Build a dark head with the cotton and whip finish. Apply head cement and off you go!

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Fishing the fly

I like to fish it with a New Zealand style rig where a 50-80cm leader is attached to the shank of the hook and a Midge, Blood worm, Wooly Worm, of similar size or slightly smaller is tied in behind it.

This fly works well for many months of the year but is deadly in winter. It has colours that annoy spawning, lake cock fish, while still being subtle enough to entice feeding fish. The colours also act as an attractor where you often find the trailing fly being taken.

Give it a try. It has a good number of steps but these steps will improve your skills on many other patterns.

Tight Lines

Wayne Ulrich Stegen

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